If I could live anywhere in the world, I would probably elect to move a whole two miles from where we currently live, and shuffle on next door to the village of Coverack. Hidden away on the Lizard peninsula just a stones throw from the Helford river, Coverack is one of those postcard-pretty thatched villages that always seems to sit in the most perfect light. It is quintessentially Cornish in almost every single way; more white washed cottages than you can throw a stick at, gentle lapping waters the colour of aquamarine and freshly home made pasties that are served out of a window hatch of a pokey cottage. There’s several quirky cafes, one that is plopped above the harbour (Archies loft) and is quite possibly the cutest little hut you ever did see. You can get freshly made pizza, Roskilly’s ice cream and sit outside in the sun watching the fishing boats come and go.
Filled with happy memories, Coverack is extremely dear to George and myself. George has had the fortune to grow up around here, work here and knows every nook and cranny of the fishing village, but for me it’s special in another way; it reminds me of the very early days of our relationship. It reminds me of a memorable and stormy winter where we splashed about on the empty beach with the winds on our faces. It reminds me of hot sunny days jumping off the pier with our friends, long walks around Lowlands point and balmy autumns sitting on Chynalls headland reading fairytales in the long grass. I remember that time we climbed up on the hay bales, sat in Boak villa by the roaring wood burner on a winters day and watched the tossing waves. I remember the Christmas swims with the other villagers every year in the freezing harbour followed by the roaring fire and mulled wine in the lifeboat house. Coverack feels like home, like happiness and comfort. Sadly, it’s mostly second homes now (Rather like the Helford) and extremely expensive to buy property, but the locals still love it dearly and unlike the Helford, it’s often busy with comings and goings throughout the year.
We decided pretty early on when choosing our wedding venue that Coverack was perfect. Obviously because we spend so much time here, it’s two minutes from where we live, it’s blow-you-away beautiful and if the weather is good, we can hold the ceremony outside.
Also, this means I get to hang out on the beach – this is pretty much all my life is about.
These past few years, it seems like summers have been much cooler than they used to be. We’ve had more days shrouded in sea fog and mizzle, bright and sunny yet brisk and breezy days and I can count the number of beach-worthy hot days we’ve had on one hand. Dressing for this kind of weather is depressing because I just want to run out the door in a breezy little dress or teeshirt and shorts but it doesn’t take long before I’m shivering, covered in gooseflesh and wishing I was covered in five scarfs, two knobbly hats and an aran jumper. I’ve decided to meet halfway and compromise with a warm yet summery combination of midi skirts and three-quarter-length tops. Mariner/Breton tops have always been a favourite of mine and now that they’re back in as this summers style, I’ve been able to bulk up my collection with what is essentially the same top just in a variety of cuts and variations of stripe thickness (mad, I know). I’ve cracked down on my obsession with ludicrously patterned skirts and for months I had been hunting for ‘the perfect’ white skirt. I had this idea of a nautical-seasidey inspired outfit in mind and my newfound love for Zara brought me to this cute button-up linen midi which pretty much goes with all of my ridiculous mariner teeshirts.
I’ve also started cracking down on my clothes intake. When we moved, I cleared out around half of my wardrobe on eBay and decided to keep only clothes that I wore regularly. Anything new that came in had to be justified, I made a rule that it had to be something that was versatile and could be worn with multiple other outfits – no more skirts and shoes that only go with one particular top that was always at the bottom of the washing bin. As a result, this has changed my wardrobe and how I buy clothes a lot. I’ve cut my buying right down to only essentials (always socks!) so now I have less hassle in the mornings trying to pick out an outfit because I’ve got far less choice. I feel more comfortable and relaxed as a result and the whole ‘getting ready’ process has become so much smoother and quicker. I’m terrible at making decisions so I’ve learned that the fewer options I have, the happier I am. I’m really enjoying my new found enthusiasm for minimalism!
No matter what the rest of the weather in Cornwall seems to be doing, the Lizard seems to be doing something else. Alex and I were discussing the possibility of it having it’s own microclimate, with multiple more microclimates within that one. For example, the village of Coverack seemed to be doing its very own thing that evening. While the rest of Cornwall was dull, grey and mizzly, the water here was its usual soothing turquoise. We drifted about the village, paddled in the harbour, munched on ice creams and then rambled to the best spot in the whole village: Chynalls point.
We took the little path up the steep hill and along the seaview front of white wash houses and allotments. Eventually, the paved path gave way to dirt and soil and the tidy and cultivated gardens of the cottages became untamed, hedgerows of wildflowers and long grass.
From the coast path, we spotted a great black seabird beating its wings on a rock. It was possibly a Cormorant or a Shag but it was quite far away to tell the markings and I’m not all that up on my bird knowledge (Something I aim to change this summer!)
I’ve really enjoyed watching the Gannets diving while I’ve been back. I’ve developed a newfound fondness for seabirds (other than Puffins) which I want to explore. Maybe I’ll get a 70-300mm zoom lens next so I can photograph birds 😀
We watched the yachts to-and-fro in the fine mist, watched the long grass dance in the gentle breeze and dodged giant horsey turds like elegant ladies of the romantic countryside. The perpetrators of the giant horsey turds became curious and soon came over to say hello.
With rumbling tums, we headed back towards the village with thoughts of dinner in mind. Although we deeply enjoy our rambles and walks together, I find myself to be silent company around others when I’m walking in the country- my mind drifts in and out like the tides, distracted by all of the glints of colour, light, flora and fauna that makes my eyes light up, sets my thoughts alight and makes deep conversation difficult.
We had a lot of deep meaningful conversation to catch up on (foremostly discussing the plot for the new Harry Potter and the cursed child play, Voldemort’s sex life and the new Ilvermorney houses (Apparently I’m a Thunderbird)) so we retired home and sat in George’s cosy little bedroom, watching dusk envelope the world beyond the window before heading out to a pub in the middle of nowhere to watch his Stepmum’s live band play.
Life has settled down a little, or then again maybe it hasn’t. Maybe I’m just better at dealing with stress now that I have my wind-and-waves method of therapy readily available. I discovered a new hobby in the form of Archery which I absolutely love, have joined a new Samba Band, tried gig rowing and found a part-time job in Porthleven while I work at getting my photography business off the ground. As I sit here, I hear only the wind rustle in the trees outside, no cars and traffic. Not even the owl has come to keep me company tonight, maybe it’s too windy for even him.
If you are ever visiting Cornwall, or maybe you live here but never think to venture so far south, take a moment to pop by Coverack – you won’t regret it. The village oozes charm, fairytale potential and the best weather in the county. Although the beach gets popular during the height of summer, it somehow still doesn’t feel so much like a tourist village (unlike St. Ives) so if you’re looking to explore a village with an abundance of hidden nooks and crannies to explore, then put a little X onto your Cornish map over Coverack.
Key points to visit while you’re here:
- For an alfresco light bite and ice cream, visit Archies loft and sit overlooking the bay
- For a beautiful, white sandy beach visit Mears beach below Chynalls
- Rent a SUP or canoe from the harbour and drift along the millpond, aquamarine bay
- For a long and beautiful walk, head left out of the village towards Lowlands point (National trust) look out for the Bronze age settlements!
- Chynalls point and wild ponies
- Pop into the Paris for a pint
- Pick up some crabbing lines from the gift shop and try your hand at crabbing from the harbour
- Take a look around the gorgeous St. Peter’s church overlooking the sea
- Pop into the Paris for a pint or on a good day, sit in the second best beer garden on the Lizard (the first being the Shipwrights of course!)
- Have a dip in the very blue sea, it’s great for swimming here (Although bear in mind that there’s no beach at all at high tide!)
Like Cornwall in general, Coverack is best enjoyed in the quieter months around May, September and October although there are some local Carnivals happening in July!
Big thankyou to my dear buddy Alex
from On Serpentine Shores for taking these portraits of me 🙂